Malerie Nut Glossy Subway Thin Brick Tiles 2 5/8x9 5/8
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Product Specifications
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- Usage recommendation must be confirmed by your installer and depends on application, installation methods and general suitability. Country Floors assumes no liability from any installation and usage recommendations.
Get the most out of your Marble Systems product by following these helpful instructions for installing floor tile. A Few Dos & Don’ts
- Tile may be installed over most structurally sound substrates if they are clean, smooth, dry and free of wax, soap scum and grease and other debris.
- Carefully read and follow all instructions and precautions on the adhesive or mortar package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes.
- Since variation of shades is an inherent characteristic of ceramic tile, mix tiles from several cartons as you set, for a blended effect.
- Order extra material for cuts, spare tiles, and waste.
- If material is face taped, remove tape after installation.
- Be sure to calculate exact tile needed for your surface before installation.
- If you are short of material do not start installation until you have all the tile that blends. Additional shipments may not match the tile from previous shipment.
- If you do order additional tile for an older job be sure to match color lots before installation.
Step 1: Surface Preparation
Tile may be installed over most structurally sound substrates, if they are clean, smooth, dry and free of wax, soap scum and grease. Any damaged, loose or uneven areas must be repaired, patched and leveled. Remove any moldings, trim, appliances, etc., which could interfere with installation. Door jambs may be undercut for tile to slip under. We recommend waterproofing most floors to prevent surface seeping.
Step 2: Layout
Begin by marking the center point of all four walls. Snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls, which will intersect at the center of room. Make sure they›re perfectly square, and adjust if necessary. Next, lay out a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, leaving spaces for uniform joints (use tile spacers). If this layout leaves cuts smaller than 1/2 tile at walls, adjust the center line by snapping a new line 1/2 tile closer to the wall. Repeat along other center line if necessary. Now divide the room into smaller grids (approx. 2' x 3') by snapping additional lines parallel to center lines.
Step 3: Applying Adhesive
Select the right adhesive for the substrate you're using. Carefully read and follow all instructions and precautions on the adhesive or mortar package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes. Using the type of trowel recommended on the adhesive package spread a 1/4" coat on the surface of one grid area, using the flat side of the trowel. Do not cover guidelines. Next, use the notched side of trowel to comb adhesive into standing ridges by holding trowel at a 45-degree angle. Then remove excess adhesive, leaving a uniform, ridged setting bed. Don't spread a larger area than can be set in 15 minutes.
We recommend using white good quality thin set such as Mapei, Laticrete, or Ardex.
Some black marbles, white marbles, dolomites, and green marbles may have to be installed with Moisture sensitive thin set. Please check with the manufacturer.
Step 4: Cutting Tile
Carefully measure tiles to be cut and mark with a pencil or felt-tip pen. Make straight or diagonal cuts with a tile cutter, curved cuts with a nipper (chipping away small pieces for best results) and full-length curved cuts with a rod saw. Sharp-cut edges may be smoothed with a carborundum stone.
Step 5: Setting Tile
Variation of shades is an inherent characteristic of marble, stone and ceramic tile – mix tiles from several cartons as you set, for a blended effect. Begin installing tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time. Finish each grid before moving to the next. Start with the first tile in the corner of the grid and work outward. Set tiles one at a time using a slight twisting motion. Don't slide tiles into place. Insert tile spacers as each tile is set, or leave equal joints between tiles. Fit perimeter tiles in each grid last, leaving 1/4" gap between tile and wall. Any rectangle porcelain should never be set in a running bond pattern, rather no more than a 1/3 overlap; the joint should be widened to 3/16" and use of a large unit porcelain mortar should be employed. When grid is completely installed, tap in all tiles with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a good bond and level plane. Remove excess adhesive from joints with a putty knife and from tile with a damp sponge. Do not walk on tiles until they are set (usually in 24 hours).
Step 6: Grouting Joints
Generally, you should wait about 24 hours before grouting (refer to the adhesive package for specifics). Carefully read and follow all instructions and precautions on the grout package. Make only enough to use in about 30 minutes. Remove tile spacers and spread grout on the tile surface, forcing down into joints with a rubber grout float or squeegee. Tilt the float at a 45-degree angle. Remove excess grout from surface immediately with the edge of float. Tilt it at a 90-degree angle and scrape it diagonally across tiles. Wait 15-20 minutes for grout to set slightly, then use a damp sponge to clean grout residue from surface and smooth the grout joints. Rinse sponge frequently and change water as needed. Let dry until grout is hard and haze forms on tile surface, then polish with a soft cloth. Rinse again with sponge and clean water if necessary. Wait 72 hours for heavy use. Don't apply sealers or polishes for three weeks, and then only in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.
For travertine tiles, materials with holes, aqua forte etc. use a grout release before grouting. You can also a sealer before grouting. This will help you clean the grout easier.
MARBLE SYSTEMS AND ITS AFFILIATES ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY CLAIMS AS A RESULT OF THESE SUGGESTIONS. YOU MUST USE A PROFESSIONAL MARBLE INSTALLER AND PREMIUM SETTING MATERIALS.
The History of Delft
In the 17th century, Dutch potters in the city of Delft set out to answer the imported blue-and-white porcelain arriving from China. Working in tin-glazed earthenware, they painted cobalt motifs onto a bright white ground (florals, figures, landscapes, and the small corner ornaments that let tiles join into endless repeating fields across a wall.)
What began as imitation became a tradition of its own, and the hand-painted blue-and-white of Delft spread outward, echoing through Portuguese azulejos, Italian maiolica, and the tiled kitchens and courtyards of the Mediterranean.
Our Delft collection draws on that whole lineage: the brushwork, the corner-motif system, and the idea that a tile can be a small, painted thing made by a person, not a machine.
Why We Love Delft Tile
We keep returning to Delft because it does so much with so little. A single corner motif, repeated, turns a plain wall into a quiet diamond lattice; the same tile used sparingly becomes a discovered detail.
The palette is restrained enough to live with for years yet expressive enough to carry a room, cobalt for the classic note, soft green for something gentler and more unexpected.
Because the motifs sit in the corners, the tiles are built to connect: every piece is part of a system you control. It is decorative without shouting, historic without feeling heavy, and endlessly composable which is exactly why designers reach for it again and again.
Complete the Room: Terracotta Below, Delft Above
There's a reason this pairing keeps appearing in the most quietly beautiful Mediterranean rooms. Warm terracotta underfoot, hand-painted Delft climbing the wall above (earth and brushwork, floor and field, the two oldest gestures in southern European interiors.)
The terracotta tile brings heat and grounding; the Delft brings light and detail. Together they make a room feel as though it was assembled slowly, over years, by someone with an eye.
Start there, then let the rest of the room gather around it.
Where Marble Becomes Movement
There is a difference between a surface that simply covers a room and a surface that gives the room architecture.
Fluted natural stone does the second. Its carved ridges create a steady rhythm of light and shadow, while the marble or stone beneath adds veining, softness, and natural variation.
The result is quiet but never flat (a material that feels both ancient and completely current.)
Why We Love Fluted Tiles
We love fluted stone because it makes texture feel refined. The grooves catch light, the ridges create movement, and the natural stone keeps every installation from feeling too perfect or too manufactured.
It is a detail designers reach for when a room needs depth, but not noise (drama, but not decoration for its own sake.)
What Makes This Tile Worth It
This is real stone, carved, not a flat tile with a pattern printed on it. The value lives in the material itself and in what the carving does with it.
Dimensional grooves give the wall genuine relief, so it reads as architecture rather than finish. Light becomes part of the design: the surface shifts through the day, warm and graphic at a low angle, soft and even at noon.
Because it is natural stone, every piece carries its own veining and tone, so an installation never looks mechanical. It brings presence to a simple room without adding busy pattern (one decision that does the work of many.)
